31 March 2005Jess Cartner-Morley, fashion editor
In the late 19th century Louis Vuitton's first suitcases, in crocodile or ostrich skin, were lined with snakeskin or sealskin. The tastes of consumers of luxury goods have changed surprisingly little since. Sealskin it seems is in demand once again.
Despite EU restrictions on the import of seal fur from pups, sealskin continues to appear on European catwalks. Despite denials, it has been reported that coats, tunics and dresses of sealskin have recently been included in Louis Vuitton collections, while in 1998, Donatella Versace included sealskin suits in her first collection after taking over from her late brother Gianni.
In the past decade, the use of sealskin in fashion has been spurred by the growth of a market for luxury goods in eastern Europe where fur has always been desired for its warmth. In Russia, sealskin is seen as an affordable alternative to more expensive furs such as mink or sable. A seal coat can be bought for as little as £2,000 - roughly one-fifth of the price of mink.
The sleek, glossy fur of the seal is also in keeping with current trends. The thick, plush furs once favoured by wealthy women - a look epitomised by Joan Collins in the 1980s - are now out of favour, with designers and consumers preferring a silkier, less bulky finish. Shaved mink (the fur is literally shaved, leaving only a layer of cropped down) is favoured by upscale labels including Christian Dior, Hermes and Alberta Ferretti. Knitted rabbit fur, which gives a less fluffy, more light-reflective surface, is another designer favourite.
Sealskin has a velvet-like finish, not unlike shaved mink which is considered more modern. They also give a slimmer silhouette to the wearer and are sought after by affluent Muscovites who wish to flaunt their wealth, without concealing their figures.
Despite restrictions on its use, sealskin can be difficult to track. The Rieber group, one of the world's major processors of seal pelts, transports Canadian pelts to a tannery in Bergen, Norway, from where they are sold to manufacturers. While some pelts are made into ostentatious fur coats, offcuts are used as decorative trims on shoes, or to make wallets. Sealskin is also used to make traditional Scottish sporrans for sale in specialist shops in the UK.
http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,,1448809,00.html
